Understanding Color Index (CI) Numbers in PMU Pigments

Understanding CI Numbers in Permanent Makeup

Have you ever looked at a PMU pigment label and wondered what those CI numbers mean? If you're in the permanent makeup industry—or planning to be—understanding CI numbers is essential for selecting the right pigments and ensuring safe, long-lasting results.

While this knowledge may not be relevant for tinting, it's a cornerstone for tattooing and can elevate your expertise in working with clients.

What Are CI Numbers?

CI numbers, or Color Index numbers, are a standardized coding system used to identify and categorize pigments. These numbers provide insight into a pigment's chemical composition, source, and properties, rather than the exact color it produces.

For example:

• CI 75470 (Carmine) – A red pigment derived from cochineal insects.
• CI 77491 (Iron Oxide Red) – A red-to-brown pigment from iron oxide.

Although two pigments may share a similar CI number, they can still produce different shades depending on their formulation. Additionally, the same color across different brands may have varying CI numbers, reflecting differences in ingredient composition.

How to Read CI Numbers on PMU Pigments

When examining a permanent makeup ink label, look for the CI number in the ingredients list. This helps you identify:
✔ The base pigments used in the ink.
✔ How colors may change over time (e.g., titanium dioxide can cause fading or graying).
✔ Potential reactions to laser removal (some pigments, like Titanium Dioxide, may turn dark under laser exposure).

Common CI Numbers Found in PMU Inks

Here’s a quick guide to some frequently used CI numbers in permanent makeup:

🔴 CI 75470 (Carmine): Red pigment from cochineal insects.
🔴 CI 77491 (Iron Oxide Red): Red to brownish-red, derived from iron oxide.
🟡 CI 77492 (Iron Oxide Yellow): Yellow to reddish-yellow from iron oxide.
⚫ CI 77499 (Iron Oxide Black): Black pigment from iron oxide.
🟣 CI 77742 (Manganese Violet): A purple pigment made from manganese.
⚪ CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide): A bright white pigment often used to lighten colors.
🔵 CI 77007 (Ultramarine Blue): A rich blue pigment from ultramarine minerals.
🟢 CI 77288 (Chromium Oxide Green): A green pigment derived from chromium oxide.
🟢 CI 77289 (Chromium Hydroxide Green): Another green variant from chromium hydroxide.
✨ CI 77163 (Bismuth Oxychloride): A shimmery white-to-pale-yellow pigment.
✨ CI 77019 (Mica): A reflective mineral often used for shimmer.
🔵 CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide): A deep blue pigment.

Thousands of CI numbers exist, but these are some of the most common in PMU. Understanding them can help you make informed choices about pigment selection, color retention, and potential skin reactions.

Why This Matters for PMU Artists

✔ Color Correction & Longevity – Knowing which pigments fade or shift over time helps create more predictable results.
✔ Safety & Skin Compatibility – Some pigments may cause allergic reactions or interact with other ingredients.
✔ Laser Tattoo Removal Considerations – Certain pigments, like Titanium Dioxide, can turn darker when exposed to laser treatments.

Final Thoughts

Mastering CI numbers will enhance your confidence as a PMU artist and set you apart as an expert in the field. Next time you're selecting a pigment, take a closer look at the label—you'll have the knowledge to choose the best ink for long-lasting, beautiful results.

💡 Want to learn more? Consider a specialized training in PMU pigments to deepen your expertise!